CDMX, My Love

Chilago (a): 1. adj. coloq. Méx. gentilicio coloquial que se refiere a las personas que nacen o viven en la Ciudad de México.

Quienes me conocen bien saben que me creo chilanga. No me creo, me siento y soy chilanga jaja y ahora tengo un pasaporte que me identifica como Mexicana. Desde la primera vez que vine a esta ciudad hace muchos años, sentí una afinidad especial y sabía que este sería mi lugar, eventualmente, y no es de extrañar que a los 3 meses de haber llegado lo confirmé.

Así que este post es super largo, pero es muy especial: primero porque es un tributo a esta ciudad que quiero tanto, y segundo porque voy a compartir mis mejores recomendaciones en CDMX (de todo).

Comencé esta guía súper curada en 2018 cuando trabajaba en WeWork para poder compartirla con los visitantes y ha crecido un montón con todo lo que le he ido incorporado a través de los años, también ha ido creciendo también en popularidad, vive como una nota de iphone que en este momento está compartida con más de 100 personas. Mis amigos me la piden, la comparten con gente y esa gente la comparte también, así que me siento muy orgullosa de ella.

Otra cosa por lo que es especial es porque es en inglés. Así comenzó y así ha ido creciendo, así que es su naturaleza.

Este post es para los que viven aquí, para los que vienen de visita, para los que sueñan con pasear por sus calles y para los que no tienen ningún interés en CDMX, porque espero esta lista les de curiosidad.

Por cierto, aunque está actualizada a octubre 2024, te recomiendo que la sigas (haciendo click aquí - si tienes iphone) porque la actualizo todo el tiempo.

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The (best 😄) Mexico City Guide 2024 🇲🇽

Google map with all the places in this list:

https://bit.ly/ReinaMexicoCityGuide 

The basics:

• If you want to sound like a local, refer to Mexico City as "DF" (short for "Distrito Federal") or CDMX ("Ciudad de Mexico") and to the locals as “chilangos”.

• Mexico City is over 7,000 feet above sea level, so you might feel out of breath after long walks or climbing stairs. The high altitude also affects alcohol tolerance— be careful!

• No, you shouldn't drink tap water, but legally, every restaurant (and hotel) must serve filtered water for free; ask for "un vasito de agua" (not bottled water). 

• Refrain from hailing cabs from the streets; always use Uber.

Restaurants - Lunch + Dinner: 

FYI (tips from Eater and me):

1. Keep in mind that most restaurants open at 1 pm for lunch.

2. 15 percent tip (or more!) is customary at restaurants. Before a server runs your card, tell him or her "con el quince joven, por favor" ("with the fifteen, please") because there won’t be an opportunity to add a Tip later on unless you have cash.

3. Here, "la comida" (the meal) means lunch and begins at 2 p.m. (most chilangos eat as late as 3 p.m.). DF is a big lunch town, so plan your days accordingly. You'll find the most vibrant scenes, the best food, and the most open restaurants during the long afternoon hours.

4. Dinner is usually a lighter meal than lunch. For locals, it often takes place as late as 10 p.m.

5. Too hot? Try the Michelada (beer 🍺 + salt 🧂+ lime 🍋 - the green one). You can order this refreshing drink everywhere.

6. Need a little pick-me-up after a long meal? Try the Carajillo ☕️+🥃 (you'll see it at every table in Mexico!), a digestive drink made with Espresso and Licor del 43 (a very sweet liquor).

7. The places with this symbol ❣️ are my favorites, and R - means you must make a reservation.

My top 3 CDMX restaurants (my very very subjective and personal favorites)

❣️❣️ ❣️ Máximo Bistrot Local:  

Favorite dishes: 

• Cebolla cocida en suero, gratinada con queso Comté, cruffin.

• Risotto con huitlacoche y parmesano.

• Pan francés, compota de temporada, helado del día .

Álvaro Obregón 65 bis, Roma Norte. R

❣️❣️ ❣️ Cana: 

Favorite dishes:

• Ensalada de ciruelas moscatel, avellanas y pecorino sardo.

• Steak frites.

• Arroz meloso con calamar y almejas. 

Liverpool 9, Juárez. R

❣️❣️ ❣️ Mattea: 

• Cacio e pepe.

• Insalata di pomodori misti.

• Gnocco fritto di Prosciutto.

• Treccia Di Cioccolato.

Cda. Monte Ararat 98, Lomas de Chapultepec. R

My recommendations:

Mexican Fine Dining

• Pujol: Best restaurant in town (according to critics). Mexican. Tennyson 133, Polanco. R 

• Contramar: Seafood and great ambiance. Durango 200, Fuente de Cibeles. Roma Norte. R

• El Cardenal: Mexican fine dining. It is very traditional and high-end, and brunch is fantastic! Various locations.

• ❣️ Carmela y Sal: Upscale International-Mexican fusion. Torre Virreyes, Lomas-Virreyes. R

• Azul Histórico: Mexican food in a really nice place. Isabel la Católica 30, Centro. R

• Quintonil: Mexican Cuisine. Isaac Newton 55, Polanco.  R

• ❣️ Carmela de Morada: This is the new restaurant from the same chef as Carmela y Sal. San Luis Potosí 134, Roma Norte. R

• Ultramarinos de Mar: Across from Martinez (and the same chef), this restaurant specializes in Mexican-style seafood. It's noisy, but the food is delicious, and there are always nice people. Mérida 21, Roma Norte.

Mexican Street Food (but not in the street, LOL) 

• ❣️ El Califa: My Favorite “traditional” taquería. Try the Costra (taco with different meats -ask for your favorite, or try the traditional Gaona or Bisteck- in a flour tortilla with grilled cheese) and the Taco al Pastor (spit-grilled pork marinated in Middle-East spices). When the waiter asks you: Con todo? (With everything?) that means if you want it with onion 🧅, cilantro 🌿 and pineapple 🍍(🤤). Various locations.

• Taqueria Orinoco: Norteño style taquería with different tacos to try. Various locations.

• El Parnita: Hipster tacos. Yucatan 84, Roma Norte. R

• El Autentico Pato Manila: Duck tacos (I can’t eat duck, but people love them). Various locations. 

Modern Cuisine

• ❣️ Roselle: My 2023 favorite place! It is cozy, and the food is comfortable and delicious. It’s a small menú with pizzas, pasta, roasted vegetables, crostinis, and crudos… and the chocolate pudding is amazing! Chiapas 122, Roma Norte.

• Botánico: Tasty menu with an international touch. Alfonso Reyes 217, Condesa.

• ❣️ Palapa Cantina Caribeña: Caribbean taste and tropical vibes in the middle of the city 🌴. Versalles 117, Juárez.

• Em: Mexican chef Lucho Martinez’s first restaurant. A little bit fancy, the cuisine focuses on the product and seasonality. Tonalá 133, Roma Norte. R

• Martínez: Lucho Martínez newest place. It is a relaxed and cozy place with a cuisine that mixes contemporary flavors. (This place is across the street from my house, so stop by and say hello :). Puebla 90, Roma Norte. R

• Elly's: Modern American-Mediterranean cuisine in a stylish setting.  Perfect for drinks and sharing small plates. Hamburgo 310, Juárez. R 

• ❣️ Rosetta: Mexican-Italian fusion. Colima 166, Roma Norte. R

• Sepia: Great Italian / seafood restaurant. Sinaloa 170, Condesa. R

• Meroma: International / Fine Dining. Colima 150, Roma Norte. R

• Sartoria: Modern Italian. Orizaba 42, Roma Norte. R (❣️Bottega Sartoria: specialty shop across the street) 

• Lardo is a casual spot from the same chef as Rosetta. It’s delicious casual food. Agustín Melgar 6, Condesa. R

• Koku: Japanese. Please order the callo-elote roll, Mexico and Japan all rolled into one. Río Lerma 94B, Cuauhtemoc.

• Izakaya Kura: Japanese. The Maguro Dom bowl is my favorite! Colima 378, Roma Norte.

• Mog Bistro: Asian. Please order the spicy edamame (be aware: they are very, very garlicky and fishy). Frontera 168, Roma Norte.

• ❣️ Páramo: Hipster tacos, loved by foreigners (only for dinner). Yucatan 84, Roma Norte. R

• ❣️ Ciena: Perfect place for a weekend brunch or casual lunch or dinner. Comfort food in a cozy place. Alfonso Reyes 101, Condesa.

• Churros El Moro: Best churros in Mexico City! Various locations.

• Anónimo: The menu has a distinctive Italian influence. Atlixco 105. Condesa.

• Polpo: Cichetti (tapas) place. Álvaro Obregón 130 (inside Pasaje Parian), Roma Norte.

Pizza Places:

• Cancino: It offers good pizzas and an excellent location for people-watching 👀(Fuente de Cibeles). Various locations.

• ❣️ Pizza Felix: Delicious pizzas in a bustling street. Álvaro Obregón 64, Roma Norte. R

• Milk: Good pizzas and a cozy place. Roma Norte.

• Pizzeria della Madonna: Pizza place from Sartoria’s chef. Orizaba 37, Roma Norte. 

Breakfast & Brunch

• ❣️ Niddo: Comfort food and delicious bakery/desserts. Small and cozy. (Also for lunch). Dresde 2, Juárez.

• ❣️ Chilpa: The best chilaquiles in town for me! You can build them yourself (mixing different kinds of tortillas, salsas, cheese, and toppings). Chilpancingo 35, Condesa.

• "El Pujol" Molino: A casual spot from the same chef as Pujol. Mexican small plates. Benjamín Hill 146-A, Hipódromo Condesa.

• Café Nin / Rosetta Panaderia: International / Mexican food and great Mexican bread (and the place is super cozy and nice!). There is a 30-minute waiting time. Havre 73, Juarez.

• Rosetta Panaderia (Bakery): Great coffee and bread. (Expect long lines). Colima 179, Roma Norte.

• Lalo: American brunch is a very nice, colorful, and busy. There is a 30-minute waiting time. (It is also open for lunch.) Zacatecas 173, Roma Norte.

• Eno: Mexican (Love the chilaquiles!) Very eclectic space. 20-30 min waiting time. Roma Norte / Polanco.

• Ojo de Agua: Healthy. Various locations.

• ❣️Madre Café: Great food. Perfect for brunch, lunch, or dinner and a very long sobremesa. Orizaba 131, Roma Norte.

• La Ventana del Ticuchi: Enrique Olvera’s small outdoor eatery (same chef from Pujol and Ticuchi). Petrarca 254, Polanco.

• Saint: Excellent pastries and sourdough bread. Benjamín Hill 146-1. Condesa.

Bars 

• ❣️ El Tigre Silencioso: hipster cantina with great vibe and great food. It is perfect for people-watching! 👀. Colima 159. R

• Long Story Short: A small bar with delicious cocktails, nice decoration, and incredible service. Florencia 51, Juárez.

• Caiman: The vibe is chill, but the bar still delivers that Condesa it factor. Nuevo León 120, Condesa.

• ❣️Hugo Wine Bar: Small bistro with delicious food! (Especially the gnocchis). Veracruz 38, Condesa.

• ❣️Tokio Music Bar: Cool bar with vinyl DJ. Río Pánuco 132, Juárez.

• Café de Nadie: Coffee shop by day, bar by night. Álvaro Obregón 130 (inside Pasaje Parián), Roma Norte.

• Limantour: No. 11 in the 50 best bars list. Delicious cocktails! Polanco/Roma Norte.

• Fifty Mills: No. 45 in the 50 best bars list. Four Seasons Hotel (Reforma).

• ❣️Xaman: Very dark, very tuluminati speakeasy (incense and everything). Copenhague 6, Juárez (open the door to the basement).

• Salon Ríos: Hipster cantina. Río Nilo 220, Cuauhtemoc.

• ❣️Brutal Vinata de Barrio: This is a nice place with a great variety of wines and excellent service. San Miguel Chapultepec.

• Bar Las Brujas: This relaxed bar has excellent signature cocktails and is full of foreigners. Calle Río de Janeiro 56, Roma Norte.

• Taverna: Mediterranean tavern, perfect for date. General Prim 34, Juárez.

• ❣️ Ticuchi: Enrique Olvera's (Pujol's chef) newest bar (with small plates to share). The menu is pescatarian with an emphasis on corn and mezcal. It’s very dark and sexy. Petrarca 254, Polanco. R 

• Limantour: No. 11 in the 50 best bars list. Delicious cocktails! Polanco/Roma Norte.

• Salon Ríos: Hipster cantina. Río Nilo 220, Cuauhtemoc.

• Balmori rooftop: Good food, excellent music, and great Gin Tonics. Zacatecas 139, Roma Norte.

• Toledo: Nice place to see and be seen. Toledo 39, Juárez.

• ChaChaCha: Tropical snack place. Avenida De La República 157, Tabacalera.

• Supra: Another nice rooftop in La Roma. Álvaro Obregón 151, Roma Norte.

• Fiera: A preppy place with preppy people. Paseo de las Palmas 530, Lomas - Virreyes. 

Clubs:

FYI: Most clubs in Mexico City are very elitist, so be prepared to deal with the bouncer and the mirreyes at the entrance.

• ❣️Café Paraiso: Cumbiaaaa and tropical rhythms 🎵(is very hot 🔥inside). Fuente de Cibeles, Roma Norte. 

• Jardín Paraíso: Café Paraíso but on a terrace 😆 Querétaro 202, Roma Norte.

• El Ayer: A new-ish club with two moods: an enclosed piano bar and a larger club. In both, they play music from the 80s and 90s. Queretaro 147, Roma Norte.

• República: This is a really preppy club with crossover music (from electronic to reggaeton and Mexican pop music with more things in between). Masaryk 407, Polanco. 

• Sens: Another preppy club. Centro Comercial Paseo Arcos Bosques.

• Leonor: Good music, laid-back mood. Nuevo León 163. Condesa.

• Guilt: Gay bar with fantastic music (only on Saturdays - say: “vengo con Roy” at the entrance). Coahuila 92, Roma Norte.

Touristic places and activities:

• Teotihuacan (Teotihuacan pyramids): 1-hour car ride from the city (without traffic). I recommend going in the morning (bring water, use sunscreen, and take it easy climbing the pyramids!) You can hire a car or take a bus from the North Bus Station (Central de Autobuses del Norte) to get there.

• Turibus: This is the best way to do a city tour,  especially helpful for seeing the downtown area. 9 am to 9 pm every day.

https://www.turibus.com.mx

• El Zócalo (Main Square - downtown): Do it on the Turibus!

• Bosque y Castillo Chapultepec (Chapultepec park and castle): National History Museum. Reforma.

• Museo de Antropología (anthropology museum): is very big and great for understanding The history of Mexico.

• Museo Tamayo (Tamayo Museum): Modern art museum. Reforma.

• Museo de Frida Kahlo / La Casa Azul (Frida Kahlo museum): This is Frida's house. Do it the same day you go to Coyoacan, but you must buy the ticket in advance. Coyoacán.

• Coyoacán is a typical Mexican neighborhood with delicious food, bars, and crafts. 

• Basílica de la Guadalupe (Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe). Gustavo A Madero. (Take the Reforma Ave. Metrobus, you need to buy a card in the station machine to get in)

• Lucha Libre: This is really fun, loud, and appropriate for the whole family. Mon, Fri, and Sat start at 7 pm. Arena México - Doctores.

Shopping:

• Mooni / Cardón: Great art and local designers. Various locations.

• Marika Vera: Couture lingerie. Guanajuato 131, Roma Norte.

• Pasaje Parián: Mini mall with cute stores. Álvaro Obregón 130, Roma Norte.

• Aurelia Concept Store: Handmade pieces by Mexican artisans. Cozumel 61, Roma Norte.

• 1/8 Takamura: Minimalist design inspired by Japanese garments. Dinamarca 66, Juárez.

• Fábrica Social: Mexican clothing. Dinamarca 66, Juárez.

• La Ciudadela: Handcrafts market. Av. Balderas y Plaza de la Ciudadela.

• Bazar del Sábado (Saturday's bazaar): Upscale Mexican handcrafts and clothes (only on Saturdays). San Angel. 

• The Shops at Downtown: Clothing, souvenirs, etc. (One of my favorite shops for female Mexican clothing is Casilda Mut.) Isabel La Católica 30, Centro.

• Balmoria: Fancy artisan beauty products. Orizaba 101, Roma Norte.

• Lago DF: Mexican design store. Masaryk 310, Polanco.

• Caravana Americana: Upscale pop-up artisan market. @caravanaam

Workout:

• Síclo: (Mexican version of SoulCycle)

• Bala: Boxing

• Commando: Functional workout

• Orange Theory: Functional workout

• ❣️ Ponte pila: Pilates, sculpt and barre.  I go there almost every day! Colima 220 (inside the building)

• Con Pausa: Yoga

Mexican Slang:

• Ahorita (in a bit): in Mexico, maybe right now... maybe never! 😄

• Mirrey is a colloquial term for a Young Mexican from a family of great economic means who likes to show off. The term is similar to “Fresa 🍓” (Strawberry, haha), which refers to a demure, serious, and sometimes arrogant person.

• Güerita / Güerito: blondie / foreign.

• Pásele güerita/güerito: come in blondie.

• Sobremesa: the long conversation you have at the table after a meal.

City Guides:

• Goop

• Eater: The 38 Essential Mexico City Restaurants

• The Infatuation

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